Learn more about azelaic acid.
You’ll see azelaic acid described online as the “unsung hero” of skincare. Funnily enough, it has only been in the last couple of years that azelaic acid has claimed hero status! Why though? Azelaic Acid is becoming widely accepted as one of the best ingredients to treat acne. But that’s not all. It is also an effective treatment for rosacea and melasma.
Before we go any further, let's bust some myths about ‘acid’. We understand that the idea of using acid on your skin might at first seem scary. In reality, many acids are skincare legends because of their ability to make your skin smoother, brighter and more even. Azelaic acid is a great example of an ‘acid’ that is actually really good at clearing up redness. So, even though it sounds like an acid might cause a whole heap of inflammation, it can actually do the opposite. Different acids are effective at treating different skin concerns, depending on the molecular size of the acid and its strength.
How does azelaic acid work?
Azelaic acid is particularly effective at treating acne as it helps to kill off the bacteria that cause acne. There are two types of bacteria that cause acne: propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis. These are actually normal skin bacteria. The issue is that they tend to grow out of control in pores that are clogged up with sebum. Azelaic acid treats acne by reducing the growth of bacteria in the follicle and therefore reducing the risk of it becoming an inflamed comedone. Azelaic acid doesn’t reduce the amount of sebum being produced, which is why we combine it with other treatments. Our custom formulas are designed to treat all the causes of acne which will give you the best results.
While azelaic acid doesn’t reduce the amount of sebum being produced, it can help prevent your pores from becoming blocked. It does this by reducing the ‘stickiness’ of dead skin cells, which form a clump and block up your pores. How it does this is a bit unclear but hey, we aren’t complaining!
That isn’t all though… when used long term, azelaic acid can also help treat hyperpigmentation. Hyperpigmentation is caused by inflammation associated with damage to your skin. When the skin is damaged it produces more melanin, which can lead to patchy dark spots on your skin. Azelaic acid is known as a tyrosinase inhibitor, which basically means it stops melanin from being produced. This also means that azelaic acid is an effective treatment for melasma.
What are the side effects?
Side effects can occur with any skin treatment and any medication at all, for that matter. Azelaic acid is widely accepted as the go-to for those with sensitive skin, so it is one of the more gentle skincare ingredients on the market. You might notice a bit of a tingling sensation after using azelaic acid. This is normal and is not a concern.
You should test your skincare on a small patch of skin and look out for any reaction. Things to look out for include redness, burning, peeling or itching. If you experience any of these reactions after testing your skincare, stop using it immediately and speak to your doctor.
When will I see results?
As with most skincare ingredients, it can take several weeks for the effects of azelaic acid to really show. For this ingredient to show its full effect, we encourage our patients to continue using it for at least two months. If you’re using a lower strength, over-the-counter azelaic acid product, you’re likely going to have to wait three to four months before you notice the true effect of this wonder ingredient.
What you should notice is a gradual reduction in redness and inflammation as well as fewer clogged pores and an overall improvement in your acne. With more prolonged use, azelaic acid will even start to reduce the visibility of scarring and hyperpigmentation. Azelaic acid is safe to use long-term. Our doctors can help explain how you can incorporate azelaic acid into your routine for months or even years.
