Ascorbic Acid

Otherwise known as Vitamin C, ascorbic acid is one of the most exciting and increasingly popular skincare ingredients out there! It is known for its powerful antioxidant properties but as you’ll find out by the end of this post, that isn’t all it can do. Ascorbic acid works on hyperpigmentation, rough texture, fine lines, acne scarring and general skin dullness. When we are young, we have abundant levels of Vitamin C in our skin but as we age these levels begin to decline. The loss of Vitamin C levels is accelerated by sun exposure and pollution, which can contribute to tired, dull, uneven and less firm skin. Adding ascorbic acid into your skincare routine can help restore this vital compound.
 

‍How does ascorbic acid work?

To talk about ascorbic acid, we first need to talk about the terms ‘antioxidant’ and ‘free radicals'. We have discussed this in our overview of niacinamide. For those of you who haven’t read about antioxidants and free radicals, here are the basics: 

The word ‘antioxidant’ is thrown around a lot in health and skincare without much explanation of what it actually means. We’ll quickly explain with a simple chemistry lesson. Firstly, let’s talk about electrons. Electrons are one of the three main types of particles that make up an atom. An atom is the smallest unit of matter. So basically, anything you can touch is made up of atoms. Electrons normally exist in pairs and give atoms their negative charge.

This is where free radicals come in. Free radicals are atoms or molecules that don’t have an even number of electrons. These free radicals will circulate around our body (including our skin) and steal electrons from our healthy cells. This process of free radicals stealing electrons from our healthy cells is called oxidative stress, which leads to damage of our cells and will inevitably speed up the process of ageing.

So, when we talk about antioxidants, we are talking about a chemical that is able to donate an extra electron to those circulating free radicals. This protects our own cells from having to give up their own electrons. Antioxidants don’t become free radicals when they donate their electrons.

Long story short, ascorbic is a potent antioxidant: An electron donor!  

Ascorbic acid has been shown to protect the skin from UV damage by reducing the amount of free radical formation in cells that become sunburned. UV light exposure also depletes your stores of vitamin C, which accelerates the process of ageing.  

Along with its antioxidant properties, there are studies that suggest that vitamin C may also play a part in collagen and elastin synthesis, which means it can also help to make your skin appear fuller and firmer. Another great feature of ascorbic acid is it inhibits melanin production, meaning it is also effective at treating dark spots hyperpigmentation.  
 

‍What are the side effects?

‍Ascorbic acid is generally safe to use on a daily basis for long periods and can be used in conjunction with most other skincare products. It is on the more acidic side so those with sensitive skin should start slow with ascorbic acid and see how their skin reacts. As always, you should try your Prescription Skin cream on a small patch of skin for a few days and look out for any signs of irritation or any reactions.  You might experience stinging, redness and dryness with the use of ascorbic acid so it is really important to have a moisturiser as part of your daily routine, along with sunscreen! 
 

‍When will I see results?

‍The effects of ascorbic acid should start to show within about 3-4 weeks. If you are using it to help treat hyperpigmentation, it may take up to 2 months for you to start to see its full effect. What you should start to see is brighter, firmer skin with fewer dark spots and fine lines.